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1    To the purpose then: my first nights lodging
2in Scotland was at a place called Mophot ,
3which they say, is thirty miles from Carlile ,
4but I suppose them to be longer then forty of
5such miles as are betwixt London and Saint Albanes ,
6but indeed the Scots doe allow almost
7as large measure of their miles, as they
8doe of their drinke, for an English Gallon either
9of Ale or Wine, is but their quart, and

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10one Scottish mile (now and then, may well
11stand for a mile and a halfe or two English)
12but howsoeuer short or long, I found that
13dayes iourney the weariest that euer I footed,
14and at night being come to the Towne, I
15found good ordinary Countrey entertainment;
16my fare and my lodging was sweet and
17good, and might haue serued a farre better
18man then my selfe, although my selfe haue had
19many times better: but this is to be noted, that
20though it rained not all the day, yet it was my
21fortune to be well wet twise, for I waded ouer
22a great riuer called Eske in the morning, somewhat
23more then foure miles distance from Carlile
24in England , and at night within two miles
25of my lodging, I was faine to wade ouer the
26Riuer of Annan in Scotland , from which Riuer
27the County of Annandale , hath it's name. And
28whilst I waded on foot, my man was mounted
29on horse-backe, like the George without the
30Dragon. But the next morning, I arose and
31left Mophot behind me, and that day I traueled
32twenty one miles to a sory Village called
33Blithe , but I was blithe my selfe to come to
34any place of harbour or succour, for since I
35was borne, I neuer was so weary, or so neere
36being dead with extreme trauell; I was founderd
37and refounderd of all foure, and for my
38better comfort, I came so late, that I must
39lodge without doores all night, or else in a
40poore house where the good-wife lay in
41Child-bed, her husband being from home,
42her owne seruant mayde being her nurse. A
43Creature naturally compacted, and artificially
44adorned with an incomparable homelines;
45but as things were I must either take or leaue,
46and necessity made mee enter, where we gat
47Egges and Ale by measure and by tale. At
48last to bed I went, my man lying on the floore
49by mee, where in the night there were Pidgeons
50did very bountifully mute in his face:
51the day being no sooner come, and hauing
52but fifteene miles to Edenborough , mounted
53vpon my ten toes, and began first to hobble,
54and after to amble, and so being warme, I fell
55to pace by degrees; all the way passing thorow
56a fertill Countrey for Corne and Cattle:
57and about two of the clocke in the afternoone

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58that Wednesday, being the thirteenth of
59August, and the day of Clare the Virgin (the
60signe being in Virgo ) the Moone foure dayes
61old, the wind at West, I came to take rest, at
62the wished, long expected, ancient famous
63City of Edenborough , which I entred like Pierce
64pennilesse, altogether monyles, but I thanke
65God, not friendlesse; for being there, for the
66time of my stay, I might borrow, (if any man
67would lend) spend itif I could get, begge if I
68had the impudence, and steale, if I durst aduenture
69the price of a hanging, but my purpose
70was to house my horse, and to suffer him
71and my apparell to lye in durance, or Lauender
72in stead of Litter, till such time as I could
73meete with some valiant friend, that would
74desperately disburse.
75    Walking thus downe the street, (my body
76being tyred with trauell, and my minde attyred
77with moody, muddy, Moore ditch melancholly)
78my Contemplation did deuoutly
79pray, that I might meete one or other to prey
80vpon, being willing to take any slender acquaintance
81of any map whatsoeuer, viewing,
82and circumviewing euery mans face I met, as
83if I meant to drawe his picture, but all my acquaintance
84was Non est Inuentus , (pardon me
85Reader, that Latine is none of mine owne, I
86sweare by Priscians Paricranion , an oath which
87I haue ignorantly broken many times.) At last
88I resolu'd, that the next Gentleman that I met
89withall, should be acquaintance whether hee
90would or no: and presently fixing mine eyes
91vpon a Gentleman-like obiect, I looked on
92him, as if I would suruay something through
93him, and make him my perspectiue: and hee
94much musing at my gazing, and I much gazing
95at his musing, at last he crost the way and
96made toward me, and then I made downe
97the street from him, leauing to encounter
98with my man, who came after me leading my
99horse, whom he thus accosted. My friend
100(quoth he) doth yonder Gentleman, (meaning
101me) know me, that he lookes so wistly on
102me? Truely Sir, said my man, I thinke not,
103but my Master is a stranger come from London ,
104and would gladly meete some acquaintance
105to direct him where he may haue lodging and

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106horse-meate. Presently the Gentleman, (being
107of a generous disposition) ouer-tooke me with
108vnexpected and vndeserued courtesie, brought
109me to a lodging, and caused my horse to bee
110put into his owne stable, whilest we discoursing
111ouer a pinte of Spanish, I related as much
112English to him, as made him lend me tenne
113shillings, (his name was Master Iohn Maxwell )
114which money I am sure was the first that I handled
115after I came from out the walls of London :
116but hauing rested two houres and refreshed
117my selfe, the Gentleman and I walked to see
118the City and the Castle, which as my poore
119vnable and vnworthy pen can, I will truly describe.
120    The Castle on a loftie Rocke is so strongly
121grounded, bounded, and founded, that by
122force of man it can neuer be confounded; the
123Foundation and Walls are vnpenetrable, the
124Rampiers impregnable, the Bulwarkes inuincible,
125no way but one to it is or can be possible
126to be made passable. In a word, I haue seene
127many Straights and Fortresses, in Germany , the
128Netherlands , Spaine , and England , but they must
129all giue place to this vnconquered Castle,
130both for strength and scituation.
131    Amongst the many memorable things which
132I was shewed there, I noted especially a great
133peece of Ordnance of Iron, it is not for batterie,
134but it will serue to defend a breach, or to
135tosse balles of wilde-fire against any that
136should assaile or assault the Castle; it lyes now
137dismonted. And it is so great within, that it
138was told me that a Childe was once gotten
139there: but I, to make tryall crept into it, lying
140on my backe, and I am sure there was roome
141enough and spare for a greater then my selfe.
142    So leauing the Castle, as it is both defensiue
143against any opposition, and magnificke
144for lodging and receite, I descended lower to
145the City, wherein I obserued the fairest and
146goodliest streete that euer mine eyes beheld,
147for I did neuer see or heare of a street of that
148length, (which is halfe an English mile from
149the Castle to a faire Port which they call the
150Neather-bow ) and from that Port, the streete
151which they call the Kenny-hate is one quarter of
152a mile more, downe to the Kings Palace, called

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153Holy-rood-House , the buildings on each side
154of the way being all of squared stone, fiue, six,
155and seuen stories high, and many by-Lanes
156and Closes on each side of the way, wherein
157are Gentlemens houses, much fairer then the
158buildings in the high-street, for in the high-street
159the Marchants and Tradesmen do dwell,
160but the Gentlemens mansions and goodliest
161houses are obscurely founded in the aforesaid
162Lanes: the Walles are eight or tenne foote
163thicke, exceeding strong, not built for a day,
164a weeke, or a moneth, or a yeere; but from
165Antiquitie to Posteritie, for many Ages;
166There I found entertainement beyond my expectation
167or merit, and there is fish, flesh,
168bread and fruit, in such variety, that I thinke
169I may offencelesse call it superfluity, or faciety.
170The worst was, that Wine and Ale was so
171scarce, and the people there such Mizers of it,
172that euery night before I went to bed, if any
173man had asked me a ciuill question, all the
174wit in my head could not haue made him a sober
175answer.
176    I was at his Maiestis Palace, a stately and
177Princely seate, wherein I saw a sumptuous
178Chappell, most richly adorned with all appurtenances
179belonging to so sacred a place, or so
180Royall an owner. In the inner Court, I saw the
181Kings Armes cunningly carued in stone, and
182fixed ouer a doore aloft on the wall, the red
183Lyon being the Crest, ouer which was written
184this inscription in Latine,
185Nobis haec inuicta miserunt, 106. proaui.
186I enquired what the English of it was? it was
187told me as followeth, which I thought worthy
188to be recorded.
189106. Fore-fathers haue left this to vs vnconquered. EDITION: vnchnquered
190This is a worthy and memorable Motto, and I
191thinke few Kingdomes or none in the world
192can truly write the like, that notwithstanding
193so many inroades, incursions, attemps, assaults,
194Ciuill warres, and forraigne hostilities,
195bloody battels, and mighty foughten
196fields, that maugre the strength and policy of
197enemies, that Royall Crowne and Scepter
198hath from one hundred and seuen descents,
199kept still vnconquered, and by the power of
200the King of Kings (through the grace of the

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201Prince of peace) is now left peacefully to our
202peacefull King, whom long in blessed peace,
203the God of peace defend and gouerne.
204    But once more, a word or two of Edenborough ,
205although I haue scarcely giuent it that
206due which belongs vnto it, for their lofty and
207stately buildings, and for their faire and spacious
208streete, yet my minde perswades me that
209they in former ages that first founded that Citie
210did not so well in that they built it in so discommodious
211a place; for the Sea, and all nauigable
212riuers being the chiefe meanes for the
213enriching of Townes and Cities, by the reason
214of Traffique with forraine Nations, with exportation,
215transportation, and receite of variety
216of Marchandizing; so this Citie had it
217beene built but one mile lower on the Sea
218side, I doubt not but it had long before this
219beene comparable to many a one of our greatest
220Townes and Cities in Europe , both for spaciousnesse
221of bounds, Port, state, and riches.
222It is said, that King Iames the fifth (of famous
223memory) did graciously offer to purchase for
224them, and to bestow vpon them freely, certaine
225low and pleasant grounds a mile from
226them on the Sea shore, with these conditions,
227that they should pull downe their Citie, and
228build it in that more commodious place, but
229the Citizens refused it: and so now it is like
230(for me) to stand where it doth, for I doubt
231such another profer of remouall will not bee
232presented to them, till two dayes after the Faire.
233    Now haue with you for Leeth , whereto I no
234sooner came, but I was well entertained by
235Master Barnard Lindsay , one of the Groomes
236of his Maiesties Bed-chamber, hee knew my
237estate was not guilty, because I brought guilt
238with me (more then my sins, and they would
239not passe for current there) hee therefore did
240replenish the vaustity of my empty purse, &
241discharged a piece at mee with two bullets of
242gold, each being in value worth eleuen shillings
243white money: and I was credibly informed,
244that within the compasse of one yeere,
245there was shipped away from that onely Port
246of Leeth , foure score thousand Boles of Wheat, SOURCE TEXT: wheat.
247Oates, and Barley into Spaine , France , and
248other forraine parts, and euery Bole containes

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249the measure of foure English bushels, so that
250from Leeth onely hath beene transported three
251hundred and twenty thousand bushels of
252Corne; besides some hath beene shipped away
253from Saint Andrewes , from Dundee, Aberdeene,
254Disert, Kirkady, Kinghorne, Burnt-Iland, Dunbar ,
255and other portable Townes, which makes me
256to wonder that a Kingdome so populous as it
257is, should neuerthelesse sell so much bread-corne
258beyond the Seas, and yet to haue more
259then sufficient for themselues.
260    So I hauing viewed the Hauen and Towne
261of Leeth , tooke a passage Boate to see the new
262wondrous Well, to which many a one that is
263not well, comes farre and neere in hope to be
264made well: indeed I did heare that it had done
265much good, and that it hath a rare operation
266to expell or kill diuers maladies; as to prouoke
267appetite, to helpe much for the auoyding of
268the grauell in the bladder, to cure sore eyes,
269and old vlcers, with many other vertues
270which it hath, but I through the mercy of
271God, hauing no need of it, did make no great
272inquisition what it had done, but for nouelty
273I dranke of it, and I found the taste to be more
274pleasant then any other water, sweet almost as
275milke, yet as cleare as cristall, and I did obserue,
276that though a man did drinke a quart,
277a pottle, or as much as his belly could containe,
278yet it neuer offended or lay heauy vpon
279the stomacke, no more then if one had dranke
280but a pint or a small quantity.
281    I went two miles from it to a Towne called
282Burnt-Iland , where I found many of my especiall
283good friends, as Master Robert Hay , one
284of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber,
285Master Dauid Drummond , one of his Gentlemen
286Pentioners, Master Iames Acmooty , one
287of the Groomes of the Priuie Chamber, Captaine
288Murray , Sir Henry Witherington Knight,
289Captaine Tyrie , and diuers others: and there
290Master Hay , Master Drummond , and the good
291olde Captaine Murray did very bountifully
292furnish mee with gold for my expences, but
293I being at dinner with those aforesaid Gentlemen,
294as we were discoursing, there befell a
295strange accident, which I thinke worth the
296relating.

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297    I know not vpon what occasion they began
298to talke of being at Sea in former times, and I
299(amongst the rest) said, I was at the taking of
300Cales ; whereto an English Gentleman replyed,
301that hee was the next good voyage after at the
302Ilands: I answered him that I was there also.
303He demanded in what ship I was? I tolde him
304in the Rainebowe of the Queenes: why (quoth
305he) doe you not know me? I was in the same
306ship, and my name is Witherington .
307    Sir, said I, I do remember the name well, but
308by reason that it is neere two and twenty yeers
309since I saw you, I may well forget the knowledge
310of you. Well said he, if you were in that
311ship, I pray you tell me some remarkable token
312that happened in the voyage, whereupon
313I told him two or three tokens; which he did
314know to be true. Nay then, said I, I will tell
315you another which (perhaps) you haue not
316forgotten; as our ship and the rest of the fleet
317did ride at Anchor at the Ile of Flores (one of
318the Iles of the Azores ) there were some foureteene
319men and boyes of our ship, that for nouelty
320would goe ashore, and see what fruit the
321Iland did beare, and what entertainment it
322would yeeld vs: so being landed, we went vp
323and downe and could finde nothing but
324stones, heath and mosse, and wee expected
325Oranges, Limonds, Figges, Muske-millions,
326and Potatoes: in the meane space the wind did
327blow so stiffe, and the Sea was so extreme
328rough, that our Ship-boate could not come
329to the land to fetch vs, for feare she should bee
330beaten in pieces against the rockes: this continued
331fiue dayes, so that we were almost famished
332for want of food: but at last (I squandring
333vp and downe) by the prouidence of God I
334hapned into a Caue or poore habitation, where
335I found fifteene loaues of bread, each of the
336quantity of a penny loafe in England , I hauing
337a valiant stomacke of the age of almost of a
338hundred and twenty houres breeding, fell to,
339and ate two loaues and neuer said grace: and
340as I was about to make a Horse-loafe of the
341third loafe, I did put twelue of them into my
342breeches, and my sleeues, and so went mumbling
343out of the Caue, leaning my backe against
344a Tree, when vpon the sudden a Gentleman

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345came to me, and said, Friend, what are
346you eating? Bread, (quoth I.) For Gods sake
347said he, giue me some. With that, I put my
348hand into my breech, (being my best pantrey)
349and I gaue him a Loafe, which hee receiued
350with many thankes, and said, that if euer hee
351could requite it, he would.
352    I had no sooner told this tale, but Sir Henry
353Witherington did acknowledge himselfe to bee
354the man that I had giuen the Loafe vnto two
355and twenty yeeres before, where I found the
356Prouerbe true, that men haue more priuiledge
357then mountaines in meeting.
358    In what great measure hee did requite so
359small a courtesie, I will relate in this following
360discourse in my Returne through Northumberland :
361So leauing my man at the Town of Burnt
362Iland , I tolde him, I would but goe to Sterling ,
363and see the Castle there, and withall to
364see my honourable friends the Earle of Marr ,
365and Sir William Murray Knight, Lord of Abercarny ,
366and that I would returne within two
367dayes at the most: But it fell out quite contrary;
368for it was fine and thirtie dayes before I
369could get backe againe out of these Noble
370mens company. The whole progres of my trauell
371with them, and the cause of my stay, I cannot
372with gratefulnesse omit; and thus it was.
373    A worthy Gentleman named Master Iohn
374Fenton , did bring me on my way sixe miles
375to Dumfermling , where I was well entertained,
376and lodged at Master Iohn Gibb his house, one
377of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber,
378and I thinke the oldest Seruant the King hath:
379withall, I was well entertained there by Master
380Crighton at his owne house, who went with
381me, and shewed me the Queenes Palace; (a
382delicate & Princely Mansion) withall I saw the
383ruines of an ancient & stately built Abey, with
384faire gardens, orchards, medowes belonging to
385the Palace: all which with faire & goodly reuenues
386by the suppression of the Abbey, were annexed
387to the Crowne. There also I saw a very
388faire Church, which though it bee now very
389large and spacious, yet it hath in former times
390beene much larger. But I taking my leaue of
391Dumfermling , would needs goe and see the
392truely Noble Knight Sir George Bruce , at a

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393Towne called the Cooras : there he made mee
394right welcome, both with varietie of fare, and
395after all, hee commanded three of his men to
396direct mee to see his most admirable Colemines;
397which (if man can or could worke
398wonders) is a wonder: for my selfe neither in
399any trauels that I haue beene in, nor any History
400that I haue read, or any Discourse that I
401haue heard, did neuer see, read, or heare of
402any worke of man that might parallell or bee
403equiualent with this vnfellowed and vnmatchable
404work: & though all I can say of it, cannot
405describe it according to the worthines of
406his vigilant industry, that was both the occasion,
407Inuentor, & Maintainer of it: yet rather
408then the memory of so rare an Enterprise, and
409so accomplisht a profit to the Common-wealth
410shall bee raked and smothered in the dust of
411obliuion, I will giue a little touch at the description
412of it, although I amongst Writers, am
413like he that worst may hold the candle.
414    The Mine hath two wayes into it, the one
415by sea and the other by land; but a man may
416goe into it by land, and returne the same way
417if he please, and so he may enter into it by sea,
418and by sea he may come forth of it: but I for
419varieties sake went in by sea, and out by land.
420Now men may obiect, how can a man goe into
421a Mine, the entrance of it being into the sea,
422but that the Sea will follow him, and so drown
423the Mine? To which obiection thus I answer,
424That at low water, the sea being ebd away,
425and a great part of the sand bare; vpon this
426same sand (being mixed with rockes and
427cragges) did the Master of this great worke
428build a round circular frame of stone, very
429thicke, strong, and ioyned togethher with glutinous
430or bitumous matter, so high withall that
431the Sea at the highest flood, or the greatest
432rage of storme or tempest, can neither dissolue
433the stones so well compacted in the building
434or yet ouerflowe the height of it. Within
435this round frame, (at all aduentures) hee did
436set workemen to digge with Mattockes, Pick-axes,
437and other instruments fit for such purposes.
438They did dig forty foot downe right,
439into and through a rocke. At last they found
440that which they expected, which was Sea-cole,

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441they following the veine of the Mine, did dig
442forward still: So that in the space of eight and
443twenty, or nine and twenty yeeres, they haue
444digged more then an English mile vnder the
445Sea, that when men are at worke belowe, an
446hundred of the greatest shippes in Britaine
447may saile ouer their heads. Besides, the Mine
448is most artificially cut like an Arch or a Vault,
449all that great length, with many nookes and
450by-wayes: and it is so made, that a man may
451walke vpright in the most places, both in and
452out. Many poore people are there set on work,
453which otherwise through the want of imployment
454would perish. But when I had seene the
455Mine, and was come forth of it againe; after
456my thankes giuen to Sir George Bruce , I told
457him, that if the plotters of the Powder Treason
458in England had seene this Mine, that they (perhaps)
459would haue attempted to haue left the
460Parliament House, and haue vndermined the
461Thames, and so to haue blowne vp the Barges
462and Wherries, wherein the King, and all
463the Estates of our Kingdome were. Moreouer,
464I said, that I could affoord to turne Tapster
465at London , so that I had but one quarter of
466a mile of his Mine to make mee a Celler, to
467keepe Beere and Bottle-ale in. But leauing
468these Iests in Prose, I will relate a few Verses
469that I made merrily of this Mine.
470

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471    The Sea at certaines places doth leake, or
472soake into the Mine, which by the industry of
473Sir George Bruce , is all conueyd to one Well
474neere the land; where he hath a deuice like a
475horse-mill, that with three horses and a great
476chaine of Iron, going downeward many fadomes,
477with thirty sixe buckets fastened to the
478chaine, of the which eighteene goe downe
479still to be filled, and eighteene ascend vp to
480be emptied, which doe emptie themselues
481(without any mans labour) into a trough that
482conueyes the water into the Sea againe; by
483which meanes he saues his Mine, which otherwise
484would be destroyed with the Sea, besides
485he doth make euery weeke ninety or a hundred
486Tunnes of salt, which doth serue most part of
487Scotland , some he sends into England , and very
488much into Germany : all which shewes the painfull
489industry with Gods blessings to such worthy
490endeauours: I must with many thankes remember
491his courtesie to me, and lastly how he
492sent his man to guide mee tenne miles on the
493way to Sterling , where by the way I saw the outside
494of a faire and stately house called Allaway ,
495belonging to the Earle of Marr , which

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496by reason that his Honor was not there, I past
497by and went to Sterling , where I was entertained
498and lodged at one Master Iohn Archibalds ,
499where all my want was that I wanted roome to
500containe halfe the good cheere that I might
501haue had there; hee had me into the Castle,
502which in few words I doe compare to Windsor
503for situation, much more then Windsor in
504strength, and somewhat lesse in greatnesse; yet
505I dare affirme, that his Maiesty hath not such
506another hall to any house that he hath neither
507in England or Scotland , except Westminster Hall
508which is now no dwelling Hall for a Prince,
509being long since metamorphosed into a house
510for the Law and the profits.
511    This goodly Hall was built by King Iames
512the fourth, that marryed King Henry the eights
513sister, and after was slaine at Flodden field ; but
514it surpasses all the Halls for dwelling houses
515that euer I saw, for length, breadth, height
516and strength of building, the Castle is built
517vpon a rocke very lofty, and much beyond
518Edenborough Castle in state and magnificence,
519and not much inferiour to it in strength, the
520roomes of it are lofty, with carued workes on
521the seelings, the doores of each roome being
522so high, that a man may ride vpright on horse-backe
523into any chamber or lodging. There is
524also a goodly faire Chappell, with Cellers,
525Stables, and all other necessary Offices, all
526very stately & befitting the Maiesty of a King.
527    From Sterling I rode to Saint Iohnston , a fine
528Towne it is, but it is much decayed, by reason
529of the want of his Maiesties yeerely comming
530to lodge there. There I lodged one night
531at an Inne, the goodman of the house his
532name being Petricke Pettcarne , where my entertainement
533was with good cheere, good
534lodging, all too good to a bad weary guest.
535Mine Host told me that the Earle of Marr , and
536Sir William Murray of Abercarny were gone to
537the great hunting to the Brea of Marr ; but
538if I made haste I might perhaps finde them at
539a Towne called Breekin , or Breechin , two and
540thirty miles from Saint Iohn stone whereupon
541I tooke a guide to Breekin the next day, but
542before I came, my Lord was gone from thence
543foure dayes.

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544    Then I tooke another guide, which brought
545me such strange wayes ouer mountaines and
546rockes, that I thinke my horse neuer went the
547like; and I am sure I neuer saw any wayes that
548might fellow them. I did go through a Countrey
549called Glaneske , where passing by the side
550of a hill, so steepe as the ridge of a house,
551where the way was rocky, and not aboue a
552yard broad in some places, so fearfull and
553horrid it was to looke down into the bottome,
554for if either horse or man had slipt, he had fallen
555(without recouery) a good mile downeright;
556but I thanke God, at night I came to a
557lodging in the Lard of Eggels Land, where I
558lay at an Irish house, the folkes not being
559able to speake scarce any English, but I sup'd
560and went to bed, where I had not laine long,
561but I was enforced to rise, I was so stung with
562Irish Musketaes, a creature that hath sixe legs,
563and liues like a monster altogether vpon mans
564flesh, they doe inhabite and breed most in sluttish
565houses, and this house was none of the
566cleanest, the beast is much like a louse in England ,
567both in shape and nature; in a word,
568they were to me the A. and the Z. the Prologue
569and the Epilogue, the first and the last that I
570had in all my trauels from Endenborough ; and
571had not this High-land Irish house helped me
572at a pinch, I should haue sworne that all Scotland
573had not beene so kind as to haue bestowed
574a Louse vpon me: but with a shift that I had, I
575shifted off my Canibals, and was neuer more
576troubled with them.
577    The next day I trauelled ouer an exceeding
578high mountaine, called mount Skeene , where I
579found the valley very warme before I went vp
580it; but when I came to the top of it, my teeth
581beganne to dance in my head with cold, like
582Virginals iacks; and withall, a most familiar
583mist embraced me round, that I could not see
584thrice my length any way: withall, it yeelded
585so friendly a deaw, that it did moysten thorow
586all my clothes: Where the old Prouerbe
587of a Scottish Miste was verified, in wetting me
588to the skinne. Vp and downe, I thinke this hill
589is sixe miles, the way so vneuen, stony, and
590full of bogges, quagmires, and long health,
591that a dogge with three legs will out-runne

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592horse with foure: for doe what we could, wee
593were foure houres before we could passe it.
594    Thus with extreme trauell, ascending and
595descending, mounting and alighting, I came
596at night to the place where I would be, in the
597Brea of Marr , which is a large County, all
598composed of such mountaines, that Shooters
599hill, Gads hill, Highgate hill, Hampsted hill,
600Birdlip hill, or Maluernes hill, are but Molehills
601in comparison, or like a Liuer, or a Gizard
602vnder a Capons wing, in respect of the
603altitude of their tops, or perpendicularitie of
604their bottomes. There I saw Mount Benawne ,
605with a furrd'd mist vpon his snowie head in
606stead of a nightcap: (for you must vnderstand,
607that the oldest man aliue neuer saw but the
608snow was on the top of diuers of those hills,
609both in Summer, as well as in Winter) There
610did I finde the truely Noble and Right Honourable
611Lords Iohn Erskin Earle of Marr,
612Iames Stuart Earle of Murray, George Gordon
613Earle of Engye, sonne and heire to the Marquesse
614of Huntley, Iames Erskin Earle of
615Bughan, and Iohn Lord Erskin , sonne and
616heire to the Earle of Marr, and their Countesses,
617with my much honoured, and my best
618assured and approued friend, Sir William Murray
619Knight, of Abercarny , and hundred of
620others Knights, Esquires, and their followers;
621all and euery man in generall in one habit, as if
622Licurgus had beene there, and made Lawes of
623Equality: For once in the yeere, which is the
624whole moneth of August, and sometimes part
625of September, many of the Nobility and Gentry
626of the Kingdome (for their pleasure) doe
627come into these high-land Countries to hunt,
628where they doe conforme themselues to the
629habite of the High-land-men, who for the
630most part speake nothing but Irish; and in former
631time were those people which were called
632the Red-shankes . Their habite is shooes with
633but one sole apiece; stockings (which they
634call short hose) made of a warme stuffe of
635diuers colours, which they call Tartane: as
636for breeches, many of them, nor their forefathers
637neuer wore any, but a ierkin of the same
638stuffe that their hose is of, their garters being
639bands or wreathes of hay or straw, with a plead

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640about their shoulders, which is a mantle of
641diuers colours, much finer and lighter stuffe
642then their hose, with blue flat caps on their
643heads, a handkerchiefe knit with two knots
644about their necke: and thus are they attyred.
645Now their weapons are long bowes and forked
646arrowes, Swords and Targers, Harquebusses,
647Muskets, Durks, and Loquhabor-Axes.
648With these Armes I found many of them armed
649for the hunting. As for their attire, any
650man of what degree soeuer that comes amongst
651them, must not disdaine to weare it:
652for if they doe, then they will disdaine to hunt,
653or willingly to bring in their Dogges: but if
654men be kind vnto them, and be in their habit;
655then are they conquered with kindnesse, and
656the sport will be plentifull. This was the reason
657that I found so many Noblemen and Gentlemen
658in those shapes. But to proceed to the
659hunting.
660    My good Lord of Marr hauing put me into
661that shape, I rode with him from his house,
662where I saw the ruines of an old Castle, called
663the Castle of Kindroghit . It was built by
664King Malcolm Canmore (for a hunting house)
665who raigned in Scotland when Edward the Confessor,
666Harold , and Norman William raigned
667in England : I speake of it, because it was the last
668house that I saw in those parts; for I was the
669space of twelue dayes after, before I saw either
670House, Corne-field, or habitation for any
671creature, but Deere, wilde Horses, Wolues,
672and such like creatures, which made mee
673doubt that I should neuer haue seene a house
674againe.
675    Thus the first day wee traueld eight miles,
676where there were small cottages built on purpose
677to lodge in, which they call Lonquhards,
678I thanke my good Lord Erskin , hee commanded
679that I should alwayes bee lodged in his
680lodging, the Kitchin being alwayes on the
681side of a banke, many Kettles and Pots boyling,
682and many spits turning and winding, with
683great variety of cheere: as Venison bak't, sodden,
684rost, and stu'de Beefe, Mutton, Goates,
685Kid, Hares, fresh Salmon, Pidgeons, Hens,
686Capons, Chickins, Partridge, Moorecoots,
687Heathcocks, Caperkellies, and Termagants;

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688good Ale, Sacke, White, and Claret, Tent,
689(or Allegant) with most potent Aquavitae .
690    All these, and more then these we had continually,
691in superfluous aboundance, caught
692by Faulconers, Fowlers, Fishers, and brought
693by my Lords Tenants and Purueyers to victuall
694our Campe, which consisteth of fourteen
695or fifteene hundred men and horses; the manner
696of the hunting is this: Fiue or sixe hundred
697men doe rise early in the morning, and they
698doe disperse themselues diuers wayes, and
699seuen, eight or tenne miles compasse, they
700doe bring or chase in the Deere in many
701heards, (two, three or foure hundred in a
702heard) to such or such a place, as the Noblemen
703shall appoint them; then when day is
704come, the Lords and Gentlemen of their
705Companies, doe ride or goe to the said places,
706sometimes wading vp to the middles
707through bournes and riuers: and then they
708being come to the place, doe lye downe on
709the ground, till those foresaid Scouts which
710are called the Tinckhell, doe bring downe the
711Deere: But as the Prouerbe sayes of a bad
712Cooke, so these Tinckhell men doe like their
713owne fingers; for besides their bowes and arrowes
714which they carry with them, wee can
715heare now and then a Harquebusse or a Musket
716goe off, which they doe seldome discharge
717in vaine: Then after we had stayed there three
718houres or thereabouts, we might perceiue the
719Deere appeare on the hills round about vs,
720(their heads making a shew like a wood) which
721being followed close by the Tinkhall, are chased
722downe into the valley where we lay; then
723all the valley on each side being way-laid with
724a hundred couple of strong Irish Grey-hounds,
725they are let loose as occasion serues vpon the
726heard of Deere, that with Dogges, Gunnes,
727Arrowes, Durkes, and Daggers, in the space
728of two houres, fourescore fat Deere were
729slaine, which after are disposed of some one
730way, and some another, twenty and thirty
731miles, and more then enough left for vs to
732make merry withall at our Rendez-vous. I liked
733the sport so well, that I made these two
734Sonnets following.

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735    Being come to our lodgings, there was such
736Baking, Boyling, Roasting, and Stewing, as
737if Cooke Russian had beene there to haue scalded
738the Deuill in his feathers: and after supper
739a fire of Firre-wood as high as an indifferent
740May-pole: for I assure you, that the Earle of
741Marr will giue any man that is his friend,
742for thankes, as many Firre trees (that are as
743good as any shippes masts in England) as are
744worth (if they were in any place neere the
745Thames, or any other portable riuer) the best
746Earledome in England or Scotland either:
747For I dare affirme, hee hath as many growing
748there, as would serue for masts (from this time
749to the end of the world) for all the shippes,
750Carackes, Hoyes, Galleyes, Boates, Drumlers,
751Barkes, and Water-crafts, that are now,
752or can be in the world these fourty yeeres.
753    This sounds like a lye to an vnbeleeuer; but
754I and many thousands doe knowe that I speake

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755within the compasse of truth: for indeede (the
756more is the pitty) they doe grow so farre from
757any passage of water, and SOURCE TEXT: aad withall in such rockie
758Mountaines, that no way to conuey them is
759possible to bee passable, either with Boate,
760Horse, or Cart.
761    Thus hauing spent certaine dayes in hunting
762in the Brea of Marr , wee went to the next
763County called Bagenoch , belonging to the Earle
764of Engie , where hauing such sport and entertainement
765as we formerly had; after foure or
766fiue dayes pastime, we tooke leaue of hunting
767for that yeere; and tooke our iourney toward
768a strong house of the Earles, called Ruthen in
769Bagenoch , where my Lord of Engie and his Noble
770Countesse (being daughter to the Earle
771of Argile ) did giue vs most noble welcome
772three dayes.
773    From thence we went to a place called Ballo
774Castle , a faire and stately house, a worthie
775Gentleman being the Owner of it, called the
776Lard of Graunt ; his wife being a Gentlewoman
777honourably descended being sister to
778theright Honourable Earle of Atholl , and to
779Sir Patricke Murray Knight; she being both inwardly
780and outwardly plentifully adorned
781with the gifts of Grace and Nature: so that
782our cheere was more then sufficient; and yet
783much lesse then they could affoord vs. There
784stayed there foure dayes, foure Earles, one
785Lord, diuers Knights and Gentlemen, and
786their seruants, footmen and horses; and euery
787meale foure long Tables furnished with all varieties:
788Our first & second course being threescore
789dishes at one boord; and after that alwayes
790a Banquet: and there if I had not forsworne
791wine till I came to Edenborough , I thinke
792I had there dranke my last.
793    The fifth day with much adoe we gate from
794thence to Tarnaway , a goodly house of the
795Earle of Murrayes , where that right Honourable
796Lord and his Lady did welcome vs foure
797dayes more. There was good cheere in all variety,
798with somewhat more then plenty for aduantage:
799for indeed the Countie of Murray is
800the most pleasantest, and plentifull Countrey
801in all Scotland ; being plaine land, that a Coach
802may be driuen more then foure and thirtie

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803miles one way in it, alongst by the Sea-coast.
804    From thence I went to Elgen in Murray , an
805ancient Citie, where there stood a faire and
806beautifull Church with three steeples, the walls
807of it and the steeples all yet standing; but the
808Roofes, Windowes, and many Marble Monuments
809and Toombes of honourable and
810worthie personages all broken and defaced:
811this was done in the time when ruine bare
812rule, and Knox knock'd downe Churches.
813    From Elgen we went to the Bishop of Murray
814his house which is called Spinye , or Spinaye :
815a Reuerend Gentleman he is, of the Noble
816name of Dowglasse , where wee were very well
817wel-comed, as befitted the honour of himselfe
818and his guests.
819    From thence we departed to the Lord Marquesse
820of HuntleysHuntleyes , to a sumptuous house of his,
821named the Bogg of Geethe , where our entertainement
822was like himselfe, free, bountifull
823and honourable. There (after two dayes stay)
824with much entreatie and earnest suite, I gate
825leaue of the Lords to depart towards Edenborough :
826the Noble Marquesse, the Earle of Marr,
827Murray, Engie, Bughan , and the Lord Erskin ;
828all these, I thanke them, gaue me gold to defray
829my charges in my iourney.
830    So after fiue and thirty dayes hunting and
831trauell, I returning, past by another stately
832mansion of the Lord Marquesses, called Stroboggi ,
833and so ouer Carny mount to Breekin ,
834where a wench that was borne deafe and dumb
835came into my chamber at midnight (I being
836asleepe) and shee opening the bed, would
837faine haue lodged with mee: but had I beene a
838Sardanapalus , or a Heliogabalus , I thinke that either
839the great trauell ouer the Mountaines had
840tamed me; or if not, her beautie could neuer
841haue moued me. The best parts of her were,
842that her breath was as sweet as sugar-carrion,
843being very well shouldered beneath the waste;
844and as my Hostesse told me the next morning,
845that she had changed her Maiden-head for the
846price of a Bastard not long before. But howsoeuer,
847shee made such a hideous noyse, that I
848started out of my sleepe, and thought that the
849Deuill had beene there: but I no sooner knew
850who it was, but I arose, and thrust my dumb

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851beast out of my chamber; and for want of a
852locke or a latch, I staked vp my doore with a
853great chaire.
854    Thus hauing escaped one of the seuen deadly
855sinnes as at Breekin , I departed from thence
856to a Towne called Forfard ; and from thence to
857Dundee , and so to Kinghorne , Burnt Iland , and
858so to Edenborough , where I stayed eight dayes,
859to recouer my selfe of falls and bruises which I
860receiued in my trauell in the High-land mountainous
861hunting, Great welcome I had shewed
862me all my stay at Edenborough , by many worthy
863Gentlemen, namely, old Master George Todrigg ,
864Master Henry Leuingston , Master Iames Henderson ,
865Master Iohn Maxwell , and a number of
866others, who suffered mee to want no wine or
867good cheere, as may be imagined.
868    Now the day before I came from Edenborough ,
869I went to Leeth , where I found my long approued
870and assured good friend Master Beniamin Iohnston ,
871at one Master Iohn Stuarts house:
872I thanke him for his great kindnesse towards
873me: for at my taking leaue of him, he gaue me
874a piece of gold of two and twenty shillings to
875drink his health in England . And withall, willed
876me to remember his kind commendations to
877all his friends: So with a friendly farewell, I
878left him as well, as I hope neuer to see in a
879worse estate: for he is amongst Noblemen and
880Gentlemen; that knowe his true worth, and
881their owne honours, where, with much respectiue
882loue he is worthily entertained.
883    So leauing Leeth , I return'd to Edenborough ,
884and within the port or gate, called the Netherbowe ,
885I discharged my pockets of all the money
886I had: and as I came pennilesse within the
887walls of that Citie at my first comming thither;
888so now at my departing from thence, I
889came moneylesse out of it againe; hauing in
890company to conuey me out, certaine Gentlemen,
891amongst the which was Master Iames
892Acherson , Laird of Gasford , a Gentleman that
893brought mee to his house, where with great
894entertainement he and his good wife did
895welcome me.
896    On the morrow he sent one of his men to
897bring me to a place called Adam , to Master
898Iohn Acmootye his house, one of the Groomes

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899of his Maiesties Bed-chamber; where with
900him and his two brethren, Master Alexander ,
901and Master Iames Acmootye , I found both cheere
902and Welcome, not inferiour to any that I had
903had in any former place.
904    Amongst our viands that wee had there, I
905must not forget the Soleand Goose, a most
906delicate Fowle, which breeds in great aboundance
907in a little Rocke called the Basse , which
908stands two miles into the Sea. It is very good
909flesh, but it is eaten in the forme as wee eate
910Oysters, standing at a side-boord, a little before
911dinner, vnsanctified without Grace; and
912after it is eaten, it must be well liquored with
913two or three good rowses of Sherrie or Canarie
914sacke. The Lord or Owner of the Basse doth
915profit at the least two hundred pound yeerely
916by those Geese; the Basse it selfe being of a
917great height, and neere three quarters of a
918mile in compasse, all fully replenished with
919Wildfowle, hauing but one small entrance into
920it, with a house, a garden, and a Chappell
921in it; & on the toppe of it a Well of pure fresh
922water.
923    From Adam , Master Iohn and Master Iames
924Acmootye went to the Towne of Dunbarr with
925me, where ten Scottish pints of wine were consumed,
926and brought to nothing for a farewell:
927there at Master Iames Baylies house I tooke
928leaue, and Master Iames Acmootye comming
929for England , said, that if I would ride with him,
930that neither I nor my horse should want betwixt
931that place and London . Now I hauing no
932money or meanes for trauell, began at once to
933examine my manners and my want: at last my
934want perswaded my manners to accept of this
935worthy Gentlemans vndeserued courtesie. So
936that night he brought me to a place called Cober-spath ,
937where we lodged at an Inne, the like
938of which I dare say, is not in any of his Maiesties
939Dominions. And for to shewe my thankfulnesse
940to Master William Arnet and his wife,
941the Owners thereof, I must explaine their
942bountifull entertainement of guests, which is
943this:
944    Suppose ten, fifteene, or twenty men and
945horses come to lodge at their house, the men
946shall haue flesh, tame and wild-fowle, fish with

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947all varietie of good cheere, good lodging,
948and welcome; and the horses shall want neither
949hay or prouender: and at the morning at
950their departure the reckoning is iust nothing.
951This is this worthy Gentlemans vse, his chiefe
952delight being onely to giue strangers entertainment
953gratis : And I am sure, that in Scotland
954beyond Edenborough , I haue beene at houses
955like Castles for building; the master of the
956house his Beauer being his blue Bonnet, one
957that will weare no other shirts, but of the Flaxe
958that growes on his owne ground, and of his
959wiues, daughters, or seruants spinning; that
960hath his Stockings, Hose, and Ierkin of the
961Wooll of his owne Sheepes backes; that neuer
962(by his pride of apparell) caused Mercer, Draper,
963Silke-man, Embroyderer, or Haberdasher
964to breake and turne bankerupt: and yet
965this plaine home-spunne fellow keepes and
966maintaines thirty, forty, fifty seruants, or perhaps
967more, euery day releeuing three or foure
968score poore people at his gate; and besides all
969this, can giue noble entertainment for foure or
970fiue dayes together to fiue or sixe Earles and
971Lords, besides Knights, Gentlemen and their
972followers, if they bee three or foure hundred
973men, and horse of them, where they shall not
974onely feede but feast, and not feast but banket,
975this is a man that desires to know nothing so
976much, as his duty to God and his King whose
977greatest cares are to practise the workes of
978Piety, Charity, and Hospitality: he neuer
979studies the consuming Art of fashionlesse fashions,
980hee neuer tries his strength to beare
981foure or fiue hundred Acres on his backe at
982once, his legges are alwayes at liberty, not
983being fettred with golden garters, and manacled
984with artificial Roses, whose weight (sometime)
985is the Reliques of some decayed Lordship:
986Many of these worthy house-keepers
987there are in Scotland , amongst some of them I
988was entertained; from whence I did truely gather
989these aforesaid obseruations.
990    So leauing Coberspath , we rode to Barwicke ,
991where the worthy old Soldier and ancient
992Knight, Sir William Bowyer , made me welcome,
993but contrary to his will, we lodged at an Inne,
994where Master Iames Acmooty paid all charges:

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995but at Barwhicke there was a grieuous chance
996hapned, which I thinke not fit the relation to
997be omitted.
998    In the Riuer of Tweed , which runnes by
999Barwicke , are taken by Fishermen that dwell
1000there, infinite numbers of fresh Salmons, so
1001that many housholds and families are relieued
1002by the profit of that fishing; but (how
1003long since I know not) there was an order that
1004no man or boy whatsoeuer should fish vpon a
1005Sunday: This order continued long amongst
1006them, till some eight or nine weekes before
1007Michaelmas last, on a Sunday, the Salmons
1008plaid in such great aboundance in the Riuer,
1009that some of the Fishermen (contrary to Gods
1010law and their owne order) tooke Boates and
1011nettes and fished, and caught three hundred
1012Salmons; but from that time vntill Michaelmas
1013day that I was there, which was nine
1014weekes, and heard the report of it, and saw the
1015poore peoples lamentations, they had not
1016seene one Salmon in the Riuer; and some of
1017them were in despaire that they should neuer
1018see any more there; affirming it to be Gods
1019Iudgement vpon them for the prophanation
1020of the Sabbath.
1021    The thirtieth of September we rode from
1022Barwicke to Belford , from Belford to Anwicke ,
1023the next day from Anwick to Newcastle , where
1024I found the noble Knight, Sir Henry Witherington ;
1025who, because I would haue no gold nor
1026siluer, gaue me a bay Mare, in requitall of a
1027loafe of bread that I had giuen him two and
1028twenty yeeres before, at the Iland of Flores , of
1029the which I haue spoken before. I ouertooke
1030at Newcastle a great many of my worthy
1031friends, which were all comming for London ,
1032namely, Master Robert Hay , and Master Dauid
1033Drummond , where I was welcom'd at Master
1034Nicholas Tempests house. From Newcastle I rode
1035with those Gentlemen to Durham , to Darington ,
1036to Northalerton , and to Topcliffe in Yorkeshire ,
1037where I tooke my leaue of them, and
1038would needs try my pennilesse fortunes by my
1039selfe, and see the City of Yorke , where I was
1040lodged at my right Worshipfull good friend,
1041Master Doctor Hudson one of his Maiesties
1042Chaplaines, who went with me, and shewed

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1043me the goodly Minster Church there, and the
1044most admirable, rare-wrought, vnfellowed
1045Chapter house.
1046    From Yorke I rode to Doncaster , where my
1047horses were well fed at the Beare, but my selfe
1048found out the honourable Knight, Sir Robert
1049Anstruther at his father in lawes, the truely noble
1050Sir Robert Swifts house, he being then high
1051Sheriffe of Yorkeshire , where with their good
1052Ladies, and the right Honourable the Lord
1053Sanquhar , I was stayed two nights and one day,
1054Sir Robert Anstruther (I thanke him) not only
1055paying for my two horses meat, but at my departure,
1056he gaue me a letter to Newarke vpon
1057Trent , twenty eight miles in my way, where
1058Master George Atkinson mine Host made me as
1059welcome, as if I had beene a French Lord, and
1060what was to be paid, as I call'd for nothing, I
1061paid as much; and left the reckoning with many
1062thankes to Sir Robert Anstruther .
1063    So leauing Newarke , with another Gentleman
1064that ouertooke me, we came at night to
1065Stamford , to the signe of the Virginitie (or the
1066Maydenhead) where I deliuered a Letter from
1067the Lord Sanquhar ; which caused Master Bates
1068and his wife, being the Master and Mistresse of
1069the house, to make me and the Gentleman that
1070was with me great cheere for nothing.
1071    From Stamford the next day we rode to Huntington ,
1072where we lodged at the Post-masters
1073house, at the signe of the Crowne; his name
1074is Riggs . He was informed who I was, and
1075wherefore I vndertooke this my pennilesse
1076Progresse: wherefore he came vp to our chamber,
1077and sup'd with vs, and very bountifully

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1078called for three quarts of Wine and Sugar,
1079and foure Iugges of Beere. He did drinke and
1080beginne healths like a Horse-leech, and swallowed
1081downe his cuppes without feeling, as if
1082he had had the dropsie, or nine pound of
1083Spunge in his maw. In a word, as he is a Poste,
1084he dranke poste, striuing and calling by all
1085meanes to make the reckoning great, or to
1086make vs men of great reckoning. But in his
1087payment he was tyred like a Iade, leauing the
1088Gentleman that was with me to discharge the
1089terrible Shott, or else one of my horses must
1090haue laine in pawne for is superfluous calling,
1091and vnmannerly intrusion.
1092    But leauing him, I left Huntington , and rode
1093on the Sunday to Puckeridge , where Master
1094Holland at the Faulkon, (mine old acquaintance)
1095and my louing and ancient Hoste gaue
1096mee, my friend, my man, and our horses excellent
1097cheere, and welcome, and I paid him
1098with, Not a penny of money.
1099    The next day I came to London , and obscurely
1100coming within More-gate, I went to a house
1101and borrowed money: And so I stole backe
1102againe to Islington , to the signe of the Maydenhead,
1103staying till Wednesday, that my friends
1104came to meete me, who knew no other, but
1105that Wednesday was my first comming: where
1106with all loue I was entertained with much
1107good cheere: and after Supper we had a play
1108of the life and death of Guy of Warwicke , played
1109by the Right Honourable the Earle of Darbie
1110his men. And so on the Thursday morning being
1111the fifteenth of October, I came home to
1112my house in London .