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1

CHAP. II.
2IS A SURVEY OF THE ISLAND OF CANOREIN NEAR BOMBAIM.

3
4    Upon these scores it was not long before I was employed
5to wait on the Father Superior of the North , a Learned
6Man, and a Spaniard by Nation, of the Order of the
7Jesuits.
8    The President commanded his own Baloon (a Barge of

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9State, of Two and twenty Oars) to attend me and one
10of the Council, to compliment the Father on the Island of
11Canorein , parted from Bombaim by a Stream half a Mile
12broad: Near our Landing-place stood a College, not
13inferior to the Building, nor much unlike those of our
14Universities, belonging to the Jesuits here, more commonly
15callen Paulistines (whose Visitor was now my Patient),
16who live here very sumptuously, the greatest part of the
17Island being theirs. Our Entertainment was truly Noble,
18and becoming the Gravity of the Society. After I had
19done my Duty, the Fathers accompanied us to the Barge;
20afore the College-Gate stood a large Cross, thwack'd full of
21young Blacks singing Vespers: The Town is large, the
22Houses tiled; it is called Bandora .
23    At our department they gave us Seven Guns, which
24they have planted on the Front of their College for
25their own Defence, besides they are fitted with good store
26of Small Arms: Following therein the Advice given by
27a Statesman to the King of Spain , about the Netherlands ;
28That if the Society of the Loyolists were multiplied, their
29Convents might serve for Castles .

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30    In the middle of the River we had a pleasant Prospect
31on both sides; on Bandora side, the College, the Town,
32the Church of St. Andrew a Mile beyond, and upon the
33Hill that pointed to the Sea, the Aquada , Blockhouse,
34and a Church; on the other side, the Church of Maijm ,
35with other handsome Buildings.
36    Curiosity led me a second time to visit the Island
37Canorein , having obtained leave for a longer Stay: nor
38went I alone, some of the best Quality on the Island being
39led by the same desire, joining themselves with me: We
40carried a Train of Servants, Horses, and Palenkeens , which
41were ferried over before us; and we coming soon after,
42were met by the Fraternity, and conducted to the Fathers,
43who detained us till Afternoon by a stately Banquet,
44shewing us the Civility of the Church and College,
45diverting us both with Instrumental and Vocal Musick,
46and very good Wine.
47    After which we were dismiss'd and four Mile off
48Bandora were stopp'd by the Kindness of the Padre -Superior,
49whose Mandate whereever we came caused them
50to send his Recarders (a Term of Congratulation, as we
51say, Our Service ) with the Presents of the best Fruits
52and Wines, and whatever we wanted.

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53    Here, not adjoining to any Town, in a sweet Air, stood
54a Magnificent Rural Church; in the way to which, and
55indeed all up and down this Island, are pleasant Aldeas ,
56or Country Seats of the Gentry; where they live like
57Petty-Monarchs, all that is born on the Ground being
58theirs, holding them in a perfect state Villainage, they
59being Lords Paramount.
60    From hence, when we had baited, the same Night we
61travelled easily to Magatana , using our Fowling-Pieces
62all the way, being here presented with Rich Game, as
63Peacocks, Doves, and Pigeons, Chitrels , or Spotted Deer.
64    When we came to the Town, two several Churches
65strove to receive us; but having some Acquaintance with
66the Father of the one, and not with the other, we excused
67ourselves to the latter, and took up with our Friend. As
68soon as we came in, the Servitors fetch'd us warm Water
69to wash our Feet, which was very refreshing; it put
70me in mind of Lot's Courtesy to the Angels. After this,
71as a piece of extraordinary Civility, they showed us the
72Necessary House; and it is so in a Countrey where Fluxes
73are so common; and for that reason it is kept as neat
74as their Lodging Rooms, having Water to Wash after
75you have used a clean Towel hung there for that Purpose.
76    This Night we fared very well. Next Morn before
77Break of Day we directed our Steps to the anciently
78fam'd, but now ruin'd City of Canorein ; the way to it

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79is so delightsome, I thought I had been in England ; fine
80Arable, Pasture, and Coppices; thus we passed Five Mile
81to the Foot of the Hill on which the City stands, and
82had passed half a Mile through a thick Wood, peopled
83by Apes, Tygers, wild Buffolo's, and Jackalls; here were
84some Flocks of Parockets: When we alighted, the Sun
85began to mount the Horizon over the Hills, and under
86our Feet, as if he had newly bathed his fiery Coursers,
87there appeared the Mouth of a Tank , or Aqueduct, out of
88a Rock, whose steaming Breath was very hot, but water
89cold: From hence it is thought the whole City to be
90supplied with Water; for as we ascend, we find such
91Places, where convenient, filled with Limpid Water, not
92over-matched in India : If it be so, (as I know not how
93to contradict it) that it should have its Current upwards
94through the hard Rocks artificially cut, the World cannot
95parallel so wonderful a Water-course!
96    From hence the Passage is uneasy and inaccessible for
97more than two abreast, till we come to the City, all cut
98out of a Rock; where it is presented Vulcan's Forge, supported
99by two mighty Colosses, bellied in the middle
100with two Globes. Next a Temple with a beautiful
101Frontispiece not unlike the Portuco of St. Paul's West
102Gate : Within the Porch on each side stand two Monstrous
103Giants, where two Lesser and one Great Gate give
104a noble Entrance; it can receive no Light but at the Doors
105and Windows of the Porch, whereby it looks more
106solemnly; the Roof is Arched, seeming to be born up by
107huge Pillars of the same Rock, some Round, some Square,
10834 in number. The Cornish Work of Elephants, Horses,
109Lions; at the upper end it rounds like a Bow; near where
110stands a great Offertory somewhat Oval, the Body of it

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111without Pillars, they only making a narrow Piatzo about,
112leaving the Nave open: It may be an 100 Feet in Length,
113in Height 60 feet or more.
114    Beyond this, by the same Mole-like Industry, was
115worked out a Court of Judicature (as those going to
116shew it will needs give Names) or Place of Audience,
11750 Feet square, all bestuck with Imagery, well Engraven
118according to old Sculpture. On the Side, over against
119the Door, sate one Superintendent, to whom the Brachmin
120went with us, paid great Reverence, not speaking of him
121without a token of worship; whom we called Jougy , or
122the Holy Man; under this the way being made into
123handsome Marble Steps, are the King's Stables, not
124different from the Fashion of our Noblemens Stables, only
125at the head of every Stall seems to be a Dormitory , or
126Place for Devotion, with Images, which gave occasion to
127doubt if ever for that End; or rather made for an Heathen
128Seminary of Devotes, and these their Cells or Chappels,
129and the open Place their Common Hall or School: More
130aloft stood the King's Palace, large, stately and magnificent,
131surrounded with lesser of the Nobility.
132    To see all, would require a Month's time; but that
133we might see as much as could be in our allotted time,
134we got upon the highest part of the Mountain, where
135we feasted our Eyes with unnumerable Entrances of these
136Cony-burrows, but could not see one quarter part. Whose
137Labour this should be, or for what purpose, is out of
138memory; but this Place by the Gentiles is much adored:
139Some contend for Alexander , and as a proof, think they
140have said enough, when it is received by Tradition, that

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141a great Gap out of a Solid Rock was cut by him to
142make this an Island: But this is contradictory to the
143Story delivered of Alexander , That he sailed up Indus ,
144and encountred King Porus , of whom some little Remains
145may be collected, they speaking of that King by the Name
146of Por in Cambaia , where Alexander landed with his Army;
147and followed the Course of Indus , directly contrary to this
148Place, that lying North-East , this South from thence; nor
149do we read his stay in India was so long, to atchieve
150such Acts as these, this Place being not the only Instance
151of this nature; but more probable to be an Heathen Fane ,
152or Idolatrous Pagod, from the Superstitious Opinion they
153still hold of its Sacredness: Wherefore the Portugals , who
154are now Masters of it, strive to erace the remainders of
155this Herculean Work, that it may sink into the oblivion of
156its Founders.
157    Returning to Magatana , we spent some days in riding
158about the Country, which we found every-where provided
159with Churches.
160    The Chief City of this Island is Tanaw : In which
161are Seven Churches and Colleges, the chiefest one of the
162Paulistines ; the Houses Tiled, but low: Here are made
163good Stuffs of Silk and Cotton.
164    There is another great Town called Mein , where is a

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165Castle and some Soldiers, towards the Sea; over against
166Bacein there is another Fort and Aquada .
167    The Portugals suffer none but Christians here: It has
168no Rivers, but only Inlets of the Sea; but good Springs
169from the Rocks; the Ground excellently fertile, either
170of it self, or by the care of the Inhabitants; that it
171yields as good Cabbages, Coleworts, and better Rhadishes
172than ever I yet saw: Besides Garden-Fruit, here are
173incomparable Water-Melons, and Onions as sweet, and as
174well tasted as an Apple; and for the natural growth of the
175Soil, it is known not only to supply the adjoining Islands,
176but Goa also. It is more than 20 Miles in Length, and
17770 in Circumference.
178
179

CHAP. III.
180A VISIT TO BACEIN, A PORTUGAL CITY IN INDIA; OUR RETURN BY ELEPHANTO,
181AND THE PUTACHOS, WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE ISLAND BOMBAIM.

182
183    The several Capitaneos of the Portugals are Triennial ,
184which are the Alternate Governments entailed on the
185Families of the Conquerors, and therefore made Circular;
186every one in his course having his turn to rule in some
187Place or other for Three Years, and upon these they can
188borrow or take up Mony as certain as upon their Hereditary

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189Estates the next Incumbent being Security for the
190payment: Pursuant to this, a new Governour coming to
191Choul , his Honour the President sent to congratulate him;
192and the Admiral of the North coming to Bacein , another
193was sent on the same Message.
194    Nor could the hot Months be over, before John de
195Mendos , of a Noble Family, sent for me to Bacein for
196the cure of his only Daughter, illustriously born, handsome,
197and on the point of Marriage with the Admiral of the
198North , though not full Twelve years old.
199    Leaving Bombaim , at this time of the year, we could go
200either within or without; but the first being related to
201be pleasantest I chose that way; sailing by Trumbay ,
202where we receive Custom, we might see a comely Church
203and Aldea : At Noon we reached Tanaw : Having gained
204our Passage over the Flats, we made no stay, but rowed
205streight to Bacein ; every half Mile we were presented
206with fresh Prospects of delicate Country-Mansions; two
207of which of special note draw the Eyes of the Beholders;
208one of John de Melos , three Mile off Tanaw , it standing
209high, curiously built, has a Terras Descent with Walks
210and Gardens half a Mile, till it lead to a spacious Banquetting-house
211over the Water, with Stone-stairs for
212Landing: Beyond it a Mile, on the side of an Hill, stands
213Grebondel , a large neat built Town of Martin
214Alphonso's ;

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215and at top of all, His House, Fort and Church, of as stately
216Architecture as India can afford; he being the Richest
217Don on this side Goa . Here we are Land-locked by the
218Gut, which is fabled to be made by Alexander ; from
219which we have an open passage to Bacein , it lying bare
220towards the Sea.
221
222

BACEIN.

223
224    Is incircled with a round Stone-wall, and has a Gate for
225every Wind; it is strong enough against the Indians , but
226not able to endure an European Foe: There are upon
227the Out-walls, and in the Fort, Forty two great Guns; the
228Fort in the middle of the City is circular; towards the
229Market appears a State-house Piatzed, where the Governour
230convocates the Fidalgos every Morning upon consultation,
231in which they all stand, a Chair not being permitted
232the Governour, though Gouty: Towards Evening they
233meet there to Game.

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234    Within the Walls are six Churches, four Convents, two
235Colleges, one of the Jesuits , another of the Franciscans .
236It bears the Name of an Academy; the Students are
237instructed in the Jesuits College, but live in Town: Where
238is a Library, with Classes of Historians, Moralists, Expositors,
239and no more. It is a College of Polite Structure,
240in the Portuco is a Copy of Angelos , representing the
241Resurrection; above Stairs, as well as below, are fine
242square Cloisters, as all their Collegiate Churches have
243on the sides whereof are their Cells; they have a spacious
244Refectory, and a goodly Church; three parts of the City
245is devoted to their use.
246    The Fidalgos (for few Artisans are tolerated within the
247Walls) have stately Dwellings, graced with covered Balconies,
248and large Windows two Stories high, with Panes
249of Oister shell, which is their usual Glazing among them
250in India , or else Latised. They shew their Greatness
251by their number of Sumbreeroes and Cofferies , whereby
252it is dangerous to walk late for fear of falling into
253the Hands of those Pilfering Abusive Rascals. None but
254Christians lodge within the City, the Banyans repairing
255to the Suburbs upon Tattoo . The City is a Mile and
256half round; it stands on an Island, separated by a small
257Channel from the Main, as far off the Island Canorein , as
258Canorein from Bombaim , and parted after the like nature.
259    The Land about is plain, and fruitful of Sugar-Canes,
260Rice, and other Grain; a great part of which has lately
261been destroyed by the Arabs of Muschat , who put them to
262a sore fright in Bacein : and this is done often, setting fire
263to their Villages, and carrying away their Fidalgos
264Prisoners, together with their Wives and Families, butchering

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265the Padres , and robbing the Churches without resistance,
266conceived on a deadly Feud, partly out of revenge
267of the Portugal Cruelties at Muschat ; but chiefly out of
268detestation of each other's Religion; insomuch that Quarter
269is denied on either side: But that on this Pretence. The
270Portugals striving to possess themselves of Muschat , were
271put to such stress, that had not their Armado come to
272their relief, they must have desisted their Enterprize:
273Upon the arrival whereof the new Recruits gained so
274much on the Arab Governour, that he yielded up the
275otherwise invincible Fort of Muschat ; where the Portugals
276acting all nefarious Outrages, contrary to their Promise,
277the Arabs re-armed themselves with Courage and fresh
278Succors, and at length beat them from hence to Ormus in
279the Gulf of Persia ; from whence also they were routed by
280the help of the English (we then being at war with them);
281the first blow to their Greatness in these Parts.
282    To check these Incursions of the Arabs , the Portugals
283every Year are at the charge of a lusty Squadron in these
284Seas, which were those we met on the Coast returning
285from thence; who were no sooner gone, than the Arabs
286sent their Fleet to do this Mischief here; which now 'tis
287done, they are again in quest of them, but they fly as often
288as these pursue.

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289

CHAP. II.
290OUR SETTING FORTH FROM GOMBROON, AND LEAVING LHOR.

291
292    At last the Heavens drop Fatness, and the Showers
293refresh the Earth, and fill the Tanks with purer
294Water, washing away the old Filth and Nastiness contracted
295by the former indispositions of the Seasons.
296    And now we having this Opportunity, set forward
297towards the Evening of the 28^th of June , the Ships in the
298Road Saluting us, and the Merchants, both French and
299Dutch , Conducting us onward of our Way, with Pomp and
300Ceremony, till we came to the Garden out of the City,
301where we entertained them with a Sumptuous Treat, and
302took our Leaves; they returning to Gombroon , and we
303going on Three Pharsangs that Night to Band Ally ,

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304Inhabited only by Poor People, in pitiful Cabbins covered
305with the Palm-Tree Boughs, by the Sea-side, expecting
306Profit, as well by Strangers as by Fishery; these Houses
307are placed on Wheels, to draw up and down at their
308Pleasure.
309    Band Ally is the Chast Ally , to whom this Caravan
310Seraw is Dedicated, in the same manner as we our
311Churches and places Sacred, to our Saints in Commemoration
312of them. Caravan Seraw , signifies no more than an
313Inn, viz. Ser , the Head, Raw , of the Way.
314    For this Journy we have no Wains for our Baggage, or
315Chariots for our selves; we Ride on Horseback, and our
316Sumpters are Loaded on Mules, Asses, or Camels, which
317march toward Evening and Travel till Morning; We go
318but slowly by reason of our Beasts of Burthen, though a
319greater part of them were dispatched a Month before us by
320another Road, less Mountainous, though farther about.
321    Coming to our Inns, we have no Host, or Young
322Damosels to bid us Welcome, nor other Furniture than
323Bare Walls; no rooms Swept, nor Cleanly Entertainment,
324Tables neatly Spred, or Maidens to Attend with Voice or
325Lute to Exhilarate the Weary Passenger; but instead
326of these, Apartments covered with Dung and Filth;
327Musick indeed there is of Humming Gnats pricking us to

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328keep an unwilling Measure to their Comfort: So that here
329is neither Provision for Man or Beast, only an open
330House, with no enlivening Glass of Pontack, or Poinant
331Cheer to encourage the Badness of the March; but every
332Four or Five Pharsangs, i.e. Parasangae , a German League,
333on the King's High way, a Caravan Ser Raw , as dirty as
334Augeus his Stable, those before always leaving the next
335comer work enough to cleanse where they have been; that
336after coming in Tired, they are more intent to spread their
337Carpets for Repose, than remove the incrustated Cake
338of Sluttery, the constant Nursery of Flies and Beetles,
339they often bringing their Horses into the same Bed-Chamber.
340    These Houses Built by Charitable Persons, are always
341supplied with Tanks and Cisterns, which now run over
342since yesterdays Rain, and are commonly very Fine and
343Costly; but other Commodities we must bring with us,
344otherwise we are likely not only to go to Bed on the bare
345Ground, but depart more Hungry than we came thither
346(very few Places maintaining Sutlers for Horse-meat, or
347Diet for the Wayfaring Man): Therefore when we undertake
348this Journy, we carry not only all our Family, but
349Housholdstuff too; for which every one has a separate
350Allowance for his Servant and his Baggage, and a Butler
351in common, who Mounts the Trojan Horse, supplied with
352Bread, Wine, Salt, Cold Meat, Knives and Napkins for the
353Viaticum , in Two Canisters, or Chests hung on each side
354one, under whose Belly is girt a Metarrah , or Goat Skin
355full of Wine, and another of Water; a Metarrah full of the
356latter every one ties to his Horses Saddle, in the fashion of
357a Leathern Bottel, and a Silver Toss, or Cup, in a Case at

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358the Bow of the Saddle: In the middle of the Munsel
359( i.e. a whole Day's Journy) the Butler alights, and by some
360advantageous Brook, or Tank, spreads a Table on the
361Ground, while the whole Caphala refresh: (We generally
362make our Munsel from Four in the Afternoon till before
363Four in the Morning) when after a Glass of Wine, and
364the Fragments of yesterdays Provisions, we betake our
365selves to Rest with much eagerness, if it be possible among
366so many strange Customs at first; as Noise of Carriers
367Bells, Feeding, Neighing, Breying, and Noise of so many
368Creatures, Loading and Unloading, with the Singing,
369Chatting, and Din of Servants, Horse-keepers and
370Muliteers; but Custom makes all things familiar and easy,
371that we generally Repose till Two the next Day; when
372our Cook has provided not only our Dinner (which is as
373Sumptuous as if at Home, and brought in with the same
374Order) but furthermore, our necessary Provant for the
375ensuing Day's Journy; and after this manner are we fitted
376to measure out our future Hardships.
377    Hither the Banyans , or English Brokers, Accompanied
378us, they taking their Leave for the Port, we keeping on our
379Course, Three Englishmen with our Retinue answerable to
380the Quality of each; we had with us Twenty Camels for
381Lumber, Fifteen Horses, Three Mules, and Two Asses,
382besides Three Shotters for our Guides, which are the only

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383Men here also, who wear Plumes of Feathers in their
384Turbats, small Bells about their Wastes, Truncheons in
385their Hands, Horse-Cloaths over their Shoulders richly
386Embroidered on Scarlet, Packthread Shoes on their Feet,
387and close Jerkins with Breeches below their Knees; these
388are our Guides, and hold our Horses while we Mount, look
389after them and the Equipments, as Bridles and Furniture,
390(the most mean of which are Silver) when we alight; and
391are not only swift, but lasting Footmen.
392    Beginning to set forward, neither Tract nor Road was
393followed, all being covered with Sand; but our Guides
394steered by their own Experience; this was not so
395comfortable, to behold nothing but a Sea of Sand; for now
396we began to turn our back upon the Gulf, and steer a more
397Northern Course, from whence to reflect what Sustenance
398this barren Earth could produce, that, should our Stores
399fail, we might want; yet even for this Jealousy we had not
400the least shadow of Reason, for had we been less provided
401we might have met with Plenty, every one striving to Vend
402us Necessaries, to the no small encrease of my amazement
403how they came by them.
404    After we had waded through Two Pharsangs of this
405Desolate Way, we began to Clamber up those Hills, which
406seem hanging over the Road of Gombroon , now beating the
407Hoof on more solid Rocks: In this Passage we could here
408and there descry some Groves of Palms, whose Fruit were
409tinctured with a Cherry Red, the constant forerunner
410of their full Maturity; at which time they look for the
411same Unhealthiness we do in our Autumn; though I find

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412them not so superstitiously addicted to Symbols, as the
413Egyptians to their Hieroglyphicks, they express the Year
414by this Tree; because this Tree, say they, of all others
415alone (which I before noted of the Coco-Nut Tree, and
416therefore I think it a kind of Palm) at every appearance
417of the New Moon procreates a fresh Branch, by which
418Twelve Productions the whole Year is resembled and
419compleated; the Trees are Tall and Slender, bearing
420their Boughs all atop, like a shady Tuft, some standing
421bolt upright, and others spread abroad, with others flagging
422and ready to give way to the Birth of more; when they
423are Young and in their Infancy, they no sooner sprout up
424but the prickly Leafs guard its tender Head, which is of a
425pithy substance, and when Wounded spoils the Trees
426Growth, so that it Dies; but while it escapes that danger,
427it rises by degrees after the former Order, the under
428Branches bowing Archwise to their upstart Youngsters;
429the Leafs are set in Rows like Ribs to a great Spine,
430arising from a Circular Base, till it end in a sharp Point;
431under these Boughs the mighty Branches hang full of
432Dates in Clusters, and which is more than say so ,
433
434    The more they'r Burthened better do they Thrive,
435Like depress'd Virtue better kept alive.
436
437    So patient under great Loads of this Fruit, that they seem
438to rejoyce with a more chearful Verdure, and unconcerned
439reject the withered Boughs, whilst a more lively Product
440makes them glad by a new Succession; by which means
441it keeps Green the whole Course of the Year.
442    Nor when the old ones fall, are these only fit for the
443Fire; for they being orderly laid, and finely Gilded or
444Painted between the Beams of the same Wood, supply
445the Ceilings and other adornments of their best Houses;

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446nor are they less serviceable to Thatch their meaner
447Cottages: The Trunk being deprived of those Combings,
448from the main Head is beheld a flourishing Peruke of
449Palms, fit to be worn by the greatest Heroes; from whence
450downwards without any Sprouts, it appears all in Coat
451of Mail Cap-a-pee, or like a Pine-Apple from its scaly
452Structure, caused by the falling of the precedent Branches,
453by which compactness it emulates its Conelike Figure.
454    Of these Trees there are Male and Female, and which
455is worthy our Notice, the Female Palms (which only Bear)
456will not Bring forth before they are Impregnated at the
457Roots with the Seed of the Male, first pounded into Meal
458and sprinkled about them; which how true I dispute not;
459but certainly Tradition has confirmed the Practice, and
460they are not to be persuaded to neglect the Custom.
461    In the midst of this Days Munsel , among the Mountains
462we passed by the Mouth of an horrid Cave; where
463they entertain Travellers with Tragick Stories, and a Legend
464of Fables, as that it is the Road to Hell; for, say they,
465whoever Enters never Returns; as if thence had arose the
466Proverb, No Redemption from the Shades ; or that of the
467Poet,
468
469    --- Facilis descensus Averni;
470Sed revocare gradus, hic labor, hoc opus est.
471
472    Easy the Descent's to Hell, but back again
473Our steps to call, this is the Work, the Pain.

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474But it stuck not on my Fancy, who had been informed
475of Pleasanter Stages on that Journy, and an higher way to
476more open Doors.
477
478    --- Patet Atri janua Ditis.
479
480    Hell Gate wide open stands.
481
482    But it may more probably be an Invention to fright Passengers
483into the right Way, and that they should avoid, by
484so sad and terrible a Remark, the wrong, which would
485wilder them in an unlucky Maze; for here the Way was
486not only Intricate but Difficult; whereby I was encouraged
487to auspicate a more Coelestial Path might lead
488us to Getche , in the Turkish Language signifying a Goat
489Village; which was on Wheels, as the other, being not
490Twenty Miles distant; it is in a Sandy Valley full of
491Shrubs, on which the Camels Feed, but the Asses, Mules,
492and Horses, on Barly and chopt Straw; (the Persians
493learn'd the Indians how to Treat their Horses; where
494having declared the manner, I forbear here, it being exactly
495the same) for these Eight or Nine Munsels they care
496not to House them, but only Cover them with Yawpengees ,

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497or Horse-Cloths, and expose them to the open Air; which
498is not so Unhealthy for them, as for Human Bodies, who
499carefully prevent such Lodgings for fear of Aches, and
500other Inconveniences incident thereupon; wherefore in the
501middle of the Vale we repaired to the Caravan Ser Raw ,
502almost buried in the Sand, it being the only obstacle to
503their rowling Billows.
504    The next Morn we were waited on by the Country
505Women bringing us Cheese, and Butter made before our
506Eyes, with no other Churn than a Goatskin, in which they
507shook the Milk till Butter came; Fish, Roots, and Herbs,
508with all sorts of Pullen: In these Two Munsels we only
509meet with these Servitors, in other Places Men appear
510alone, not allowing their Women that Freedom; but were
511they no more tempting than these Swains, they'd have
512small cause for the Restriction; for they are Strapping
513Sunburnt Lasses, with little more Cloaths on than a dark
514coloured Smock, or Frock; and for their Meen it is not
515enticing; these bring us Water to Drink out of their Tanks,
516newly filled, which was Thick, Troubled, and Slimy; for
517which reason the Vapours, or rather Fumes from the Sun's
518violence, were very Offensive, and the more irksome, because
519we were constrained to tarry here another Night, for that
520the River Rute Conna Shure ; or Salt-Water, was now
521overflown by the Waters falling from the Mountains beyond
522the Banks to that excess, that it could not be Forded by
523Travellers, and the Stream ran with that Rapidness, that
524it was unsafe to venture over till the descending Cataracts

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525had left off pouring on the overswell'd Brinks, and emptied
526themselves into the wider Gulf, not many Leagues distant
527hence.
528    The Day after, as soon as we heard the Waters were
529abated, we set forward, and found it true what had been
530reported (Three Caphala's not daring to pass the Lake,
531where they had lain some Days, till we had led the way).
532It was sultry Hot when we assayed to go, but Delays
533in this case were dangerous; besides, we were uncertain
534whether it would hold up should we tarry, which made us
535confide on our Guides, who gave us assurance, that the
536Marshes were passable; we were more troubled with Waves
537of Sand than Water, both which, by Rain, or Wind, keep
538on their course with some noise till silenced in the Persian
539Gulf.
540    Athwart this Fen, which was upward of Three Miles,
541was Built not long since, as by the Modern Architecture
542may be guessed, a stately Stone Bridge with Arches, on
543which high Banisters with Niches, and a brave paved
544Cawsey Elegantly Built, which kept pace with us, but by
545the Negligence of these People, as well as Injury of Floods
546and Sands, it was broke down in several places, especially
547where the Torrent made the deepest Channel, so that
548though firm and strong in the greatest part of it, yet
549by its being ruined in the most needful, it is become
550impassable; and though a Work of extraordinary Benefit
551and Charge, yet already rendred of little Use.

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552    The rest of this day's Journy was between the Mountains,
553where we were encounter'd by strange Flashes of
554Lightning, the Foretellers of this Night's Rain, which we
555hardly escaped before we came to Caurestan , in all Twenty
556Miles: This Caravan Ser Raw is named from a Tree
557growing here, and a Village properly so called (of which
558it is a Composition in Persian ), it being the first we met
559with whose Houses were fixed.
560    The following Day we continued going between two
561Chains of Dry and Burnt Hills, through a stony Valley,
562not without fear of suffocating, although it was near Evening
563e're we set out, and Yesterday's Showers had benignly
564distilled on the Fiery Drought, to cool the parched Earth:
565But this is the dreadful Vale, where when the Hot North
566Winds blow at this time, it sweeps both Men and Beasts
567away, either by Night or Day, the Heat being as intense
568and as intolerable as that from the Mouth of an Oven: We
569were conducted through this Furnace by the Divine Protection
570(without being put to make use of the common
571Remedy in this Exigency, which is, upon perceiving of
572the hot Blasts, to cast our selves flat on the Ground till
573they are over, thereby to prevent the Fate attending those
574who refuse to stoop to this known Prescription, which is, to
575fall down dead, never to rise more alive), till we were

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576mounted where these two Chains are linked to each other,
577and by their mutual Ascent we were lift up on high, and
578then gently descending we were led down to Goorbazergum ,
579Fifteen miles from Caurestan .
580    In this Bottom is a solitary Inn, very commodiously
581seated; it is surrounded with Mountains, at whose Bottoms
582are store of Water-Melons, a grateful Cooler in this Extremity
583of Heat: Goor-Bazergum is as it were to say, The
584Merchants Grave , in the Persian Tongue.